dishesandplaces

the goose station. all that it’s meant to be

In eating in manila on January 29, 2011 at 6:11 pm

this post is a looooong time coming. we went there in november for camille’s birthday. we wanted a really good meal and we got that and more. the best option really is to go with their signature menu (P2500). it’s a full tasting menu which varies per season.

for starters we had the foie cone with foie mousse, fig jam, and hazelnut

admittedly, i don’t get to have foie that much. it’s quite a treat for us, actually, and the way it was done in this dish was fantastic. a great combination of rich and tart.

now before or after that – unfortunately can’t remember – we had a trio of amuse bouche

i checked my notes and sadly i have nothing on the amuse. but i’m pretty sure that isn’t because they were not good. we didn’t have anything here that wasn’t excellent. but the next course we remember well. alaskan king crab, white asparagus flan and prawn jelly

the presentation was very well done – on a bed of dry ice. emphasized the cold and gave an extra dimension to the flavor of the caviar. nice. the flan was also well-executed maintaining a lot of the asparagus flavor.

next was another dish that displayed excellent technique. a 63 degree sous vide agg with air dried bacon, mushroom and grain pilaf and a cocido broth.

this was terrific. sous vide is the sort of thing i thought i’d only see on tv and with meat, but to have it locally and with an egg is quite a treat. the perfect egg. the air dried bacon though did it more than the cocido broth – which was also very good. but anytime you have bacon, it wins. didn’t hurt to have chef rob pengson do tableside service either.

next, a salad. beets, goat cheese, orange, some greens and compressed melon – regular melon and watermelon.

as is obvious, more than anything, it is a very very pretty salad. the compressed melon was the showy technique and it was a lot of fun. concentrates the melon flavor to make it more intense. very enjoyable.

next up, foie with oxtail jam, santol chico puree and pickled radish salad

inventive as the concept of the dish may be, the best part about it was the foie. the santol and chico jam tasted puree tasted sweet more than anything and didn’t really carry their mother flavors over well.

the main course was sous vide quail, cauliflower foam with pine nut and raisin

this dish was perfect. bringing out the full gamey flavor of the quail and delicate cauliflower.

we ordered another main course, pasta with scallops and caviar

the least satisfying dish of the night. the scallops were good, yes, but everything else tasted of burnt fishiness. perhaps the caviar was an overkill,

then it was time for dessert. first up, a deconstructed blueberry chesecake

very smart dish. i loved it. tasted like the best of cheesecakes should. and i’m generally not a fan of deconstruction, but this one worked.

next dessert, chocolate cake with raspberry

 

the raspberry was frozen and cracked which gave the dish character, but taste-wise, not memorable. at least, not as much as the cheesecake.

and last, what they called a bittersweet farewell, a play on a burger

honestly, the flavors are now forgotten. but never mind, the presentation was very clever and a good ending.

was this worth the price we paid? absolutely. i called it “tv food” – all the techniques seen on shows like top chef. conceptually very well thought of. execution? yes, successful. it’s good manila gets this sort of fine dining treatment. will go back, yes, but when we’ve managed to save enough to afford it.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: